Not only the Incas- other 4 great civilizations of Peru

Machu Picchu and Incas in general are THE civilization in South America. Everyone talks about them and visits their site. It seems like before them there was nothing. Well there was. And we did not even visit all of it. Here are 4 other great civilizations of Peru.

  1. Kingdom of Chimor

They ruled northern coast of Peru which looks pretty much like a dessert. They created huge mud-brick city called Chan Chan. It’s one of the biggest construction of that kind in the world. Still there was really no one who wanted to see it so we visited it without any queues or crowds. I guess Peruvians think if there are no tourists yon don’t have to protect it so we also didn’t see any guards just an old man selling tickets.

Chan Chan was founded around 850 CE and conquered by the Incas in 1420 CE.

  1. Wari

They ruled extended parts of Peruvian coast. Some say they were the inspiration for the Incas. But little is known about them. Close to Cuzco we managed to see their capital- Pikillaqta which was really impressive and… abandoned. A shame really, because rebuilt, it would be probably as breathtaking as Chan Chan.

Except for their capital, closeby Cusco there is also a Wari gate that was built over and upscaled by the Incas. It’s really weird to see and recognize two civilizations glued together.

Wari ruled parts of Peru between 500 CE and 1000 CE

  1. Chachapoyas

They are also known as Warriors of the Clouds. No wonder as all their sites are situated in the cloud forest of the Amazon where most of the times it’s misty, cloudy and rainy. Chachapoyas probably developed around 750 CE and were later conquered by the Incas. They managed to create sarcophagi on a side of a cliff and caves in cliffs where they had their loved ones buried. They even came to visit their ancestors there… They also built a massive fortress called Kuelap which has more than 400 buildings inside. Not to mention its massive wall.

  1. Moche

They created mud-brick pyramids in the northern coast of Peru (Huaca de la Luna y del Sol). Even though nowadays they don’t look like pyramids really, they have unbelievable wall paintings inside, full of colors, shapes and faces of different creatures.

Moche were in Peru between 100 CE and 800 CE.

Lost City hike, Colombia

What you think about long- term travel & the reality of it. Those 12 little misunderstandings

When you think about an Around The World trip you think about all of those positives, all of the pretty pictures you see and inspirational stories you hear. But… it can be dirty, it can be boring, it can be frustrating. Maybe you will feel like coming back. We love our life on the road, really we do! But it’s not always as great as we imagined. Although it’s always worth it. Here are some little misunderstandings before you go on your journey of a lifetime.

  1. Only millionaires can travel long term

Hell no! We met a guy who was travelling on 300 dollars for a few months through Central America. Ok, he was only eating rice, free pancakes and leftovers from other people and he was volunteering most of the time but it’s possible! It’s all a matter of choices and how much of your comfort you want to sacrifice.

  1. All the locals will smile and wait for you to take a picture of them…

Not all the locals smile to you to begin with. Taking pictures of the locals is a business in many places. People wanna have National Geographic pictures so they pay and so locals see that they can earn money by looking poor and well… local. Not all of them but many so watch out.

Lost City hike, Colombia

  1. … and then they will invite you home for tea

Not all the people want to get to know you, not all want to help you and not all will even respond to you “hello” even if you learn it in their language.

  1. You won’t ever stink…

If only pictures could smell… You will stink soooo often. If you’re already lucky enough to find a laundry place, they will wash your clothes in a 15 min program in cold water. Let’s say I wouldn’t take any fancy clothes, they just won’t remain fancy…

P1030695~01

  1. You meet only amazing people

For every amazing, super interesting person we managed to get to know, we met probably 10 super boring or super idiots. The amount of people who travel only to “check” stuff from their list and get drunk afterwards is insane! And you wouldn’t believe how many boring people you will meet on your way! Many of your brain cells will die in those forced conversations.

  1. Every day you see something mind-blowing and special

On a long-term journey you get more and more selective about the things you want to see. One Machu Picchu is cool but imagine you see the tenth ruin like that. Or another idyllic beach… Some stuff just seems more normal after some time. Besides not every day you will be able to see wonderful things sometimes you will be glued to the toilet or on a 24-hour bus.

Galicia, Spain

 

  1. You won’t ever be bored

You will, oooohhh you will. Long hours in a bus, long hours waiting, you meet people and you hear the same questions… Maybe you can start doing crochet just like I started:)

  1. You will see everything you want

Even on a life-time- long travel you won’t see everything, it’s just impossible. You will always have to choose, what you want to see. And honestly it’s even more difficult than on a short trip just because you have an ocean of possibilities.

  1. All the stuff you don’t have or gets broken you can get there

That’s what I read when I was leaving and guess what, in Argentina my panties got stolen (dirty!!). Ok they were new and pretty, stupid of me to even take things like that but still… I wanted to buy new ones and I couldn’t find anything okish… Only Bridget Jones or for the Red Light District, nothing in between. When it comes to electronics in Argentina it’s insanely expensive, the same with outdoor equipment so… if you can’t live without a specific thing, take it!!

  1. You will always want to see and do more

No! Sometimes you will just feel like staying in bed for the whole day and watch Harry Potters. You won’t feel like packing and taking another bus or seeing another thing.

  1. You will be happy and grateful every day of your trip

You will get frustrated, you will cry. You will sometimes feel like the locals only want your money and see you as a white cash machine. You will get food poisoning and you will regret you didn’t take a private room, sometimes you won’t even feel like saying “hi” to the people in your dorm or talking to them…

  1. You will come back the same

You will see other lifestyles, you will see poverty but also simply joy. You will meet the most inspiring people in your life. They will become your friends. You will push your borders and learn about life, the world and yourself. You will see that you can make your dreams come true. That the world is full of possibilities and choices. You're the master of your own destiny. You will never be the same person. But that’s alright. Because guess what, this journey is going to prepare you for everything, revise your priorities and teach you humility. And the joy and appreciation you will get when you're back at home, eating your food and using a normal bathroom is incomparable to anything.

Pazo de Santa Cruz de Rivadulla, Galicia, Spain

 

Devils Throat Waterfall Argentinian side

Why is long time travelling different than a vacation? Those 8 subtle differences…

So we just came back from South America and everyone is envying us because we had such a loooong vacation. But guess what... we don’t feel like we were on vacation. Long- time travelling is a lifestyle that changed our life completely and it’s not comparable to a vacation. Here is why we feel our journey is different than a vacation:

  1. No time limit or anyway not a close one and no plan…

On vacation I always had a list of things to see, try, do. Every minute I was busy or I was thinking about what I’m gonna do next. Now we have a sea of time. We can talk to people without thinking we will be late for something, we can read about local culture and we can go with the flow. When we were in Argentina next to Iguazu Falls it was raining insanely for 4 days. Everyone had one or two days to see the waterfalls so they had to go but we could wait for the perfect weather. We also end up seeing more  of the "not so touristic" places.

Devils Throat Waterfall Argentinian side

  1. …But we do have money limits…

Let’s face it we are not really millionaires. So we have to be selective. We sleep in dorms with many other people, we volunteer, we keep track of our expenses, we think before we spend. And we cook mainly ourselves. On vacation we were normally more willing to go a bit crazy, go for nice dinner, stay in a nice hotel.

  1. … and limit of stuff we take

Packing for vacation I always wanted to have options so I took a dress for this, a dress for that, shoes for this, shoes for that and make up and maybe even some hair products. Then I would sit on my suitcase to push something more in. On a RTW (Round The World travel) I have to drag all that stuff the whole time so I took only things I really needed. So one pair of shoes, one pair of slippers, two pairs of socks (ok that was a mistake) and obviously not too many cosmetics. Only the absolute basics. Our backpacks are around 11-13 kilo each depending on the amount of food and spices we drag around (yep we almost have a kitchen in there)

Palomino, Colombia

  1. Travelling we can’t go home…

Simply cuz we don’t have one. We left everything. So we can’t really unpack for long. And there is no privacy. We always share something, if not a room then a bathroom or a kitchen

  1. …so we miss things

Our friends get married, celebrate their birthday, get sick and we are not there. Ok there is skype but it’s not the same. Not even nearly.

  1. It became our whole life…

Earlier we woke up to go to work now we work on being good in our passions – JD in programming, me in photography. It’s not like I think National Geographic will hire me but I love it so I want to learn and I never know what’s gonna come handy when I’m going to search for a job.

  1. …even though sometimes it’s tough…

On vacation it’s all fascinating and we never had time to get tired with the “new”. But after such a long time we long for a washing machine, hot showers, toilet where you can flush toilet paper. And generally stuff that work. And the food!! Omg European food!!

Choquequirao, Peru

  1. …we meet the most inspiring people ever

Maybe it’s our mind set or where we sleep but we meet amazing people that we would have never met on vacation. People that make us realize that everything is possible if you really want it. They open our minds and hearts and make everything worthwhile. Both travelers and locals make us see how different life can be and how we are the ones deciding about it.

Salt Flats

Salt Flats

A year in South America. How much does that cost? And why so much :)

In 368 days we traveled through Argentina, Uruguay, Bolivia, Peru, Colombia and we paid short visits to Ecuador and Brazil. In total we spend of 24 938 euros for the two of us.

Can you do it cheaper? Yes, for sure. We met a guy who was only eating rice and sometimes for the variety leftovers from other people. We didn’t do that. We also didn’t drink water from fountains and we didn’t sleep in parks. We did volunteer every now and then. You can always volunteer more. It’s a reasonable budget of two people that like good food (mainly cooked ourselves during the travel), don’t mind sleeping in dorms but sometimes get a double room and definitely don’t go for drinks every other night. OK let’s break it down then:)

Which country was the most expensive?

As you can see below Peru was the most expensive country. We spent 75 euros per day with the two of us. In total 5227 euros over 70 days. That’s because we did a very expensive Salkantay trek and we went a bit crazy on very fancy dining and we bought a cheap laptop (around 200 euros). We also didn’t do any volunteering. Honestly speaking I definitely feel Argentina was the most expensive country. We spend 65 euros per day for us two but we saved a lot by volunteering there for a month out of 99 days in the country. During the month on the farm, where we volunteered, we didn’t spend anything as the food and bed and rats were all included:) Otherwise the budget per day would be much higher. While expenses in different parts of Peru are comparable, in Argentina they are really different. For amazing colorful mountains and delicious wine in the North we paid way less than for omnipresent ice and coldness in the South. In Patogonia for a bed in a dorm in low season (so in total winter) we paid around 18-20 euros while in the north for that price you can find a nice private room with private bathroom.

 

Which country was the cheapest?

Bolivia. No doubt about that. Food, local transport and hostels are ridiculously cheap! And fun. While Colombia or Uruguay can be compared to Europe, Bolivia is definitely the furthest we got from the western world. The typical Bolivian Cholitas, their outfits and their hats- incredible. And I still can’t forget the dead baby lamas for good luck… On average per day we spend 45 euros so over 48 days “only” 2346 euros.

Salt Flats

What were the budget breakers in South America?

Well definitely Patagonia in Argentina. It’s one of the most beautiful things to see there but it’s really expensive. We went there in low season and it was still quite pricey and the variety of food was just ridiculous. We went there mentally prepared to eat instant noodles and potatoes and that was already difficult to find. That I’m not going to mention that we bought the most expensive pack of pasta there for 5 euros (nothing fancy just pasta).

Another one would definitely be Machu Picchu in Peru. We spend 843 dollars with the two of us to do an organized Salkantay trek to get to Machu Picchu. You can definitely do it on your own but Machu Picchu is still really expensive. Especially if you want to get a train to get there and then a bus and then maybe sleep somewhere close…

Machu Picchu, Peru

We also didn’t deny ourselves a paradise experience on the islands of San Andres and Providencia. We couldn’t cook there so we had to eat out every day and even though it was really cheap (around 5 euros for a meal) but it’s still not as cheap as something you cook yourself. We also didn’t go there to chill on the beach and count the seals. We went diving. Even though a two tank dive is only around 45 euros it’s still quite a lot of money for two people for more than one time.

One time we also decided to pamper ourselves with renting an apartment. We wanted to spend Christmas in a flat not in a dorm and we didn’t want to share a kitchen or bathroom. As a matter of fact, we didn’t even have to share a bathroom with each other.

OK, so on what did we spend all that money?

Accommodation was the most expensive part. We spend 6334 euros. We slept in many places. Countless dorms, some private rooms, sometimes a tent and a few times even a hammock which we definitely don’t recommend. A few times we went crazy on nice private rooms like in Minca for a room with a terrace and a nice view or Christmas when we rented a whole apartment for just the two of us. If we only slept in dorms we could probably cut the budget by 2000 euros.

Medellin, Colombia

To get from one place to another we spend 6212 euros. That includes also our flight to Buenos Aires from Paris (780 euros for both of us) and our flight from Colombia to Barcelona (1059 euros for the both of us). In South America our main mean of transport were local buses which were cheap everywhere except for Argentina. There for a 24 hour bus ride we paid around 130 euros (imagine in Peru an overnight bus was around 40 euros). And you need a 24 hour bus to get anywhere in this huge country. Colombia was the only country where we decided to fly around a bit since it was sometimes even cheaper than a bus!! God bless their Viva Colombia (Colombian Ryanair).

Food is not far behind. We ate for 6180 euros. Most of the times we cooked ourselves (really around 85%). But when we ate out we didn’t go to the cheapest places. We preferred to spend a bit extra to get good quality food. We also went for a few dates and a few drinks. Nothing too crazy. Well maybe except the 2 times we went for super fancy dining in Lima🙂

On tours, museums, fees and all things that you could call tourism we spend 4381 euros. Definitely a big part of it was our Salkantay trek on which we spend 843 euros and an 8-day kayaking tour through the amazon for 562 euros.

Jandirk took also an intensive Spanish course for a month, 4 hours a day which cost us 363 euros.

448 of our precious euros went for peeing in public toilets, medicine, books and other little things that out of the sudden became big money :O

On equipment we spent 966 euros that includes our new laptop, clothes that we bought along the way and other little things.

Alto Bonito, Salamina, Colombia

Our tips to travel cheaply.

  1. Keep track of every peso, euro, dollar spend. It’s the most important thing! For all of our expenses we have a spreadsheet to keep track and understand on what we spend our money and why. It helped us to be conscious with our spendings
  2. Sleep in dorms, always choose a hostel that has a kitchen! Those two saved us a lot of money. Even in cheap Bolivia eating out is more expensive than cooking yourself
  3. Volunteer when you can! It’s an awesome way to meet the locals and their culture and save a lot of money on accommodation and maybe even food. We volunteered chasing chickens on a farm in Argentina (WWOOF) and in hostels in Colombia and Panama (via Workaway)
  4. When you go to Argentina try to take as much US dollars as you can. You save a lot of money exchanging dollars on the streets for the blue dollar rate. And it’s not as dodgy a business as you would think. No one will slice your throat when you do it. At least we didn’t have any problems... ever
  5. Do your research! Check how much things should cost, ask the locals! We always checked how much a bed should be or a taxi or anything. Otherwise people will let their imagination loose with their prices and you won’t even know
  6. Try to use local transport!
  7. Try to travel off season
  8. If you speak Spanish try to use it to be a translator for tours! It’s definitely a big save up when you can do tours for free because you can translate. I did that during the Lost City trek

On our blog you can also find detailed budgets from each country:) if you still have any questions we will happily answer them:)

Lost City hike, Colombia

Top TEN things we saw in South America (well one in Central)

„What did you like the most?” is THE question everyone asks us. So here we go, our top 10 of South America (and a tiny bit of Central). And all of these ten places we loved differently but equally as strong.

1. Off the beaten track to Choquequirao

That hike was absolutely the number one among the hikes for us. It was hard, painful but truly magical. While Machu Picchu is a beehive full of tourists, where you can’t walk around freely, it’s noisy and you can forget about peeing for some time, Choquequirao is peaceful and mystical. There are almost no people and the site is way bigger then MP so we could walk around freely and we saw just 3 people during the whole 1.5 day of walking around (yeah that’s how long it takes to see it). It’s also for only 40% excavated so the stones and terraces disappear in thick vegetation. When I even start to think about it I would like to go back and do it all over again.

2. Omnipresent ice in Calafate

The immense glaciers in Calafate were definitely one of a kind. The tourist attraction number one, Perrito Morreno, was breathtaking, huge and looking at the pieces breaking off was better than a football match. And it’s not so touristic in the winter…:) The Titanic-like pieces of glaciers floating around were just surreal to see, a bit like islands of blue ice in the middle of nothing. And hikes near Chalten where you could just walk around and see dry glaciers just like that was stunning!! I even miss the cold when I write it.

3. Under and above water wonders of San Andres and Providencia

Well, in San Andres we didn’t see any wonders except for garbage and general chaos. But Providencia was all we were hoping for and more!! Gorgeous beaches, water in 50 shades of blue and FOOD!! Everything we tried there was absolutely delicious and it was definitely the best we ate during our trip (except for super fancy restaurants in Lima). The best of it all was the diving: sharks, stingrays, crabs, families of fish and all just sooooo close and soooo many.

4. Warmth of the people and originality of the coast of Uruguay

Without a doubt people from Uruguay were the most educated of all nations we met. They knew so much about history of any country including Poland that I wish I could send all my future babies there for school. Not to mention people were genuinely interested in us and wanted to talk and talk and talk and … drink mate:) The coast has obviously stunning beaches with mostly hippie architecture (recycle houses, Heineken bottle floor etc) and cute little penguins and sea lions. In September you can also spot whales.

5. The Lost City of Tayrona

Simply incredible! When I googled it I was really not impressed but live, it’s another story. It’s immense, breathtaking and magical:) it’s so surrounded by thick vegetation that it gave us a feeling of a hidden place worth all the sweat and pain during the hot, dusty trek to it.

6. Charming little frogs and nature in “Mouth of the Bull”- Bocas del Toro

From Bocas we didn’t expect much since it’s very touristic. But we were positively surprised. Our hostel was so cute, charming and comfy, food was delicious and little red-dotted frogs stole our hearts. Not to mention we saw a huge boa and stunning green forests everywhere. And that’s just because we didn’t stay on the main island but went to Bastimentos.

7. Lakes and mountains around Bariloche

Even though when we were there it was covered in ash after a volcano exploded in Chile, it was an amazing region to see. The town itself looks just like a Swiss mountain village so nothing too special. But the surroundings!! Insane!!! Lakes and mountains everywhere and really many! In between them forests. Pure nature.

8. Kayaking adventures in the Amazon

That was probably the craziest thing we have done. Observing crocodiles not even from a distance actually:P fishing piranhas all the time, getting bitten by all those crazy mosquitos and all that accompanied by noise from all types of monkeys. To fall asleep in that chaos of nature with stars above our head and fireflies was really one of a kind. Just priceless.

9. Wine drinking and colorful mountains in the North of Argentina

If we lived in Cafayate we would become alcoholics! And that drinking different wine every day (yep there is plenty). Not to mention really close from the wine there are colorful mountains and canyons.

10. The villages in the coffee region

Those stole our hearts. Calm, colorful, green and the locals were as colorful as the houses. Warm and friendly. We found one of the best hostels to volunteer in and definitely the best Airbnb. We made friends that hopefully we will see again. We even started drinking coffee :).

Open post
Rotenburg a.d. Fulda, Germany

Meet the Dortmundts

Lucky us, we come back to Europe and we arrive just in time for Jandirk's family reunion. Perfect opportunity to meet the Dortmundts for the first time in their (what it turned out to be) epic vacation destination- Rotenburg. I took prep for the event really seriously and requested a genealogical tree from Jandirk so that people don't have to repeat their names a thousand times. Especially that Dutch names are always unique, uncommon and on the edge of being pronounceable. The first people I met as soon as we arrive had to repeat their names because they were not on my tree... Some of them I still don't remember...
But it was still amazing and a very colorful weekend. 45 people and all sorts of personality. The crazy, the colorful, the typical dutch, the warm aunt (not even one in that category), the quite, the travel lover. All of that on one party. It all kicked off with a barbecue out of this world. When the meat from the grill got watered with some beer and German Riesling (wine) ambitious dutch music from tapes arrived. Hits like "beer and tits" and "I wanna have sex with the bold one" were reviving its glory. And even the oldest senior on the party stayed up till at least 1.30 am (that's the time we went to bed). The next day the whole family went by bus on a revival of their old vacation to see the pool, the campsite, the town. All the old stories were coming back and even to me (an outsider) it was a really heartwarming experience. We ended up in "their" restaurant. Unfortunately over there they got scared with our small group of 45 people and we could only order schnitzel, schnitzel or schnitzel and for the daring ones a salad. There was also a very limited Donald Duck dish for kids that only a few very special people managed to get. Even coffee or ice cream was out of reach for the guys in the kitchen. But even so it was a charming place, full of history. And they did have beer:)
Since we had a big house rented all for us we transferred the party over there. The senior of the family even gave a singing and dancing performance. Looking at him I was only hoping JD got some of those genes and he's gonna have that energy when he's that old and when its that late. I guess we will have to wait and see till we are the seniors of a reunion in a very far future.

 

 

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